Day 11: Rocky Mountains National Park

Another North American Road Trip

Day 11

Monday, June 29th

We woke up this morning and had breakfast at the hotel. We got the cruck loaded back up, and drove to Rocky Mountains National Park. Only, we weren’t able to enter right away. Our camp reservation got us into the park without a timed entry reservation, but not until 1 PM. We had three hours to kill. 

We started in the Fall River Visitor Center. (Thank goodness it was on the outside of the park!) We did all the normal things we enjoy. Shopping around. Getting the three oval stickers, getting the little metal token, stamping our books, getting recommendations from the ranger of what to do today. 

Then Desmond asked for a junior ranger book and hit the jackpot. Not only did they have a junior ranger program, they also had a night sky and angler packet to earn a patch and badge. We were informed that in this park the badges are on the honor system so that families don’t have to circle back to a visitor center. So after asking Desmond a few questions about what he can do to help protect the park, he was sworn in. When he does the booklet, he will have earned his fiftieth Jr. Ranger badge. 

While we were there, I bought Bryan a good looking hoodie. It is a rusty light brown color and says Rocky Mountain National Park on it. Since it is supposed to be pretty windy today, and possibly cold tonight, this seemed like a good buy. 

We enjoyed the exhibit showing many of the animals and plants of this area.  We determined that an animal we had seen along the roadside and been puzzled over must have been a river otter. So fun! 

Next we drove and parked in the little town outside the park. It had a strip of shops like you would see at the beach.  We began spending our time window  shopping, stepping into various candy shops, and trying samples whenever offered (including taffy, and freeze dried Skittles). 

We tried some amazing “top shelf” jerky that had a cherry flavor to it. It doesn’t sound good, but it was. The price was impressive and we passed. We talked to Desmond about our goal being to spend time, not money. We encouraged him to look at everything, and in the end, after our picnic lunch, we might come back and get a treat somewhere. 

I decided, since there were so many places with ice cream, that we should see if we could find a non-dairy chocolate option. So everywhere that had a sign advertising ice cream we went in and checked. Lemon, strawberry, mango, and eventually cookies and crème - but no chocolate. 

We concluded our walk along the shopping area with a game store. It had all sorts of games and puzzles and brain teasers. Having bought nothing, we returned to the cruck and made ourselves lunch. Deli sandwiches for the boys and salad for me. 

When we were done, true to our word, I asked Desmond if there was anywhere he wanted to go back to to get a treat. He said yes, the first shop we had gone into. We walked over there and he selected a chocolate dipped Twinkie with white chocolate drizzle on top. 

He ate it with much gratitude and enthusiasm. It was on a stick like a corn dog. It looked pretty good, if we’re honest. None of the chocolate treats were dairy free (even the dark chocolate ones) so I passed, and Bryan did too. 

We drove back to the park entrance and stopped at the first thing the ranger had highlighted on our map: Sheep Lakes. It was a wildlife viewing point for big horned sheep, which we saw at a distance. 

Next we went and took a little walk at Alluvial Fan to a waterfall. Gotta love low hanging fruit. It was pretty and didn’t take long to see. We hopped back in the car and started toward the Trail Ridge Road where we enjoyed a scenic drive at high elevation (up to 12,000 ft at points). We oohed and ahhed our way higher and higher into the alpine tundra. My favorite view was of a lake across the valley that appeared to be caught between two mountains. 

We got up to the Alpine Visitor Center where Bryan was pleased to find a Bear Lake token to add to our little collection. It was quite windy and we decided not to take the hike up any further for a look around from even higher up. 

After that we went to Moraine Park discovery center where Desmond opted to not dissect an owl pellet. He did get a Jr. Firefighter packet (and premature badge) to do later. 

Next we fed Desmond a protein heavy snack because the chocolate covered Twinkie seemed to have come with a sugar crash in tow.  

This area of the park we were in now requires a permit or a camping reservation. We were happy to have full access to the park since we would be camping later at Moraine Park Campground. 

We easily parked in the Bear Lake lot (despite a sign indicating it was full and we should take the shuttle bus). We checked in with a ranger at the trailhead. Nearby, roughly 150 people waited in a covered area to board the shuttles back to their vehicles after hiking. We let him know we had about an hour and a half to hike and asked what he recommended. He recommended the seeing same lakes that the previous ranger had dotted in highlighter on our map, and gave us some information about the trails. 

We walked over to Bear Lake. It was beautiful and easy to get to. Then we turned around and took the trail up to Nymph Lake. The border of the lake was covered in lillypads. Desmond stepped closer to the water and exclaimed that he had found an axolotl!  I came and looked. And sure enough it was a huge amphibian with gills around its head. I looked it up later and it was a Western Tiger Salamander. 

We continued up the trail (which was a bit huffy and puffy due to the elevation) for another half a mile. At which point we were rewarded by Dream Lake. It sparkled in the sunshine, had mountains as its background, and trees off to the side. So beautiful!

On the way back down we stopped by the some rushing water and enjoyed the view there as well. Then back down to Nymph Lake. The walking downhill was surprisingly easy. Not jarring on the knees and joints as is sometimes the case. Before we knew it we were back at the parking lot and bypassing the line - heading for our cruck. 

We drove from there to our campsite. The site was not quite what we had envisioned. We had a shared area to park our car right next to the car of the campers next to us. Not a problem if you are traditional tent camping, but feels a little intrusive to set up the roof top tent and extend the ladder toward someone else’s car. Fortunately, our neighbors arrived soon after we did, and we were able to explain the situation and politely ask if that would be in their way at all. They were gracious, and we set up our tents. 

Next order of business was hot dog dinner. I fired up the little Coleman stove and put our all beef hot dogs on the grill. Each of us decided we would like two. Once they were grilled, we added some ketchup/mustard, prayed, and dug in. We also enjoyed some strawberries and blueberries and chips.

After dinner, the boys continued to set up camp, including the hammock, while I got all the food tucked away into the bear box and washed the dishes. When I got back, Desmond was finishing up some of his Junior Ranger packet. 

Then Desmond went to talk to the neighboring kids, while I took a turn in the hammock. It was such a nice evening. I stared up into the limbs of the trees and saw some magpies and a mountain chickadee above. 

After a bit, Bryan encouraged Desmond it was time to head over to the amphitheater for the ranger talk. He came back telling us all about his new friends, aged 10 and 12, who were on their 4th week of a roadtrip and doing lots of national parks as well. 

We walked to the amphitheater and his conversation shifted to the type of Minecraft mod he hoped to design. I put in my earbuds and turned on some worship music as he continued to tell Bryan all about it. 

After a while, Ranger Bob came and began the presentation. It was called “Living with Fire” and was about wildfires. Including their role in nature, how to prevent causing additional fires, how to care for the forest so that fires are not as destructive when they do happen and much more. It was a wonderful and informative presentation. Afterward, he had the kids come up and take the Junior Firefighter oath.  Desmond took the oath and earned his 51st Junior Ranger badge. 

Finally, as people filed out of the amphitheater and back to their campsites, Bryan approached to ask him about his career path to being a Ranger. He had worked in the national parks when he was first entering the workforce, then he transitioned from firefighting to medic work, and then to hospital work. After managing a hospital for a few decades, when he retired he went back to the parks. He started by volunteering, and then when those with hiring power had seen some of his work and gotten to know him, he mentioned his previous work with the parks and they hired him back on. 

Bryan mentioned that he is a teacher, and would like to work in the parks as a retirement gig. The Ranger was enthusiastic and encouraged him to pursue it. He says he works part-time, three days a week, and has time to be a grandpa. Like other older rangers we have met, he seems to be having the time of his life. 

I pray that if this is a path the Lord has in mind for us, that he would guide us how to get there. Volunteering at Fort Vancouver could be a very manageable first step. 

We walked together as a family back to our campsite, a short distance away, and saw a bat. This one was larger than those we have seen other places. 

The night was chilly. We were all wearing hoodies and warm hats at this point. It got colder. Desmond did fine in his sleeping bag. Bryan and I were cold with just our sheet and one blanket. Neither of us slept as much as we would like.  And at various points I was miserable. Finally in the early morning I turned on my heated vest and warmed up some. 

 Keep Traveling with the Schmidts on Day 12

Did you miss any of our trip so far?  Here are Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5, Day 6, Day 7, Day 8, Day 9, Day 10